Slios Bruguaine

Charring Wood as a Preservative Treatment To read about what charcoal is, see  The History of Charcoal . To read about the mound method of producing charcoal, see  Charcoal Clamps , and to read about the underground method, see  Pit Kilns . To read about other uses for charcoal, see Micro-Charring .  Char chemically changes wood, making it more resistant to rot, insects and fire damage, and can be done easily at home without specialized equipment. Background In temperate regions, wood posts are likely to rot, particularly at the line where they protrude from the ground. The denser the wood, the slower the rot (which is why locust wood makes good fence posts), and certain species of tree can contain chemicals that fight mold and insect damage, but here in the mid-Atlantic region of the US, these are not enough. Even cedar posts rarely last longer than 20 years without treatment. Locust posts frequently survive 10 years, and other hardwood species last...

Charcoal Pits To read about what charcoal is, see The History of Charcoal . To read about the mound method of producing charcoal, see CharcoalClamps . To read about the crucible method of producing charcoal, see Micro-Charring .  To read about wood preservation, see Charring Fence Posts . Creating charcoal begins with preparing a burn site. With the mound method, this means scraping clean a level, above-ground surface, cleared to prevent the spread of fire. This can include building earthwork sides or half-walls to reduce the labor of enclosing the burn pile. However, a safer and more certain method is to dig a trench or pit hearth, and to conduct the charcoal burn below grade. Burning within a sheltering bank of earth provides two major benefits, compared with open mounds: 1) It reduces the dirt-shoveling labor involved in repeated burns, so long as the same site is used each time. Rather than having to cover an entire mound with dirt every time a charcoal mound is fired...

Charcoal Clamps: The Mound Method To read about what charcoal is, see The History of Charcoal . Site prep Charcoal production begins with preparing a burn site. This may be a trench or a pit, but it can also be a cleared above-ground surface at a safe distance from flammable materials. The charcoal burner had to scrape the flat site of all vegetable matter, including surface roots, which could spread the fire from the burn. Later techniques for this included using draft animals and a scraper blade to drag the area clean; in the Appalachian Mountains, colliers chose saddles between ridges and clear-cut, pulled out stumps, then scraped with a road blade to create the round, flat, clear spaces for their charcoal burns (and many of these clearings, with fire-road access, still serve as convenient camping spots today). Details on their method can be found in the Foxfire series, Vol. 5. For the mound method, it was imperative that the burn site be stable and completely level. If the...

What is charcoal? Charcoal is a natural wood derivative left behind after wildfires, structure fires or campfires. Humans learned early on to create charcoal deliberately as a superior fuel source that was concentrated, light, and clean to transport, and that made hotter, smokeless fires. To create charcoal, dry wood has to be slowly carbonized to remove any moisture and many impurities. Hardwood converts more efficiently into charcoal than softwood (the denser, the better) and it must be seasoned (air-dried) for 6+ months in most climates before the charcoal burn, or else the moisture present in the wood will cause wasteful fuel loss during the burn. Ideally, oak wood that was cut in freezing weather (when the sap is underground) and dried until summer would make the best charcoal—although, other dense woods such as holly and birch were also used extensively in Europe, and any organic matter can be converted to charcoal under the right conditions. Making the dry wood into charc...

The History and Sustainability of Coppicing  Part 4: Hedges  To read about other forms of coppicing, see Coppicing: Part 1 , Part 2 and Part 3 . Definition Hedges are lines of closely planted trees that form a barrier by growing together thickly. Fedges are living fences of trees, planted closely like a hedge, but carefully pruned to keep the trunks open and visible (the trunks are often woven in some aesthetically pleasing pattern). Hedges frequently reach 6' thick, and are allowed to grow with minimal edge-pruning for years at a time between pleachings. Fedges must be pruned yearly and only their tops become brushy and thick. History Hedges are as old as pasture divisions, and remain in use today. In WW2, hedge-rows in Europe were so old, well-rooted and impenetrable that they were able to stop tanks, and had to be blasted out of the way for machinery to get through. Unlike stone walls and wattle fences, hedges become stronger and better at containing livestock...

The History and Sustainability of Coppicing  Part 3 of 4: Pollarding Definition A pollard is like a coppice, except that the tree must be trained to the purpose from a relatively young age, and the above-ground section of tree is not completely removed. Instead, the tree is allowed to retain the first section of trunk and sometimes a few side-branches. Then, the annual growth is cut and harvested every winter—or, in the case of fruit tree pollarding, new growth is pruned away during the growing season. Pollarding is designed for a pastoral system or a domestic yard, rather than a forest system. The goal of a pollard is to combine livestock pasture, or home and garden areas, with useful wood or fruit production (especially slender withes for making baskets or wattle), all with a minimum of risk to the tree and to the human settlement. A pollard is kept artificially short, so that it never reaches a dangerous height (it cannot fall on structures or fences or livestock), ...

The History and Sustainability of Coppicing  Part 2 of 4: Coppicing  Definition Coppicing is the practice of cutting deciduous hardwood poles again and again from the same stool. Generally, the cutting must occur in freezing weather, to be certain that the sap will be below-ground and will keep the roots alive. A tree, managed this way, will learn to heal the cuts quickly and become better at growing the next batch of shoots efficiently. A good way to remember how coppicing works is this short couplet: If the roots survive, the tree is alive! Selecting a tree The process begins with a mature tree. The root system, below-ground, must be large enough to contain sufficient energy to regrow an above-ground tree after the above-ground section is completely removed. If the tree is too young (say, a 2-yr-old sapling), it may not have enough strength built up to recover from the initial trauma of the cutting. The tree should also not be too old. When a tree has developed and gro...